After installing a zbminiL2 behind toggle switches, I want to put one behind a push-button switch.
There are two switches coupled to an impulse relay (télérupteur). Each switch has only 2 wires, one on L, the other on 1. I don’t have access to the impulse relay (I can hear it but I can’t see it).
I can’t find a wiring diagram for a no-neutral module, and without removing the impulse relay (I want to be able to keep it operational in case the module fails). And I don’t see how to do it from the Sonoff manual since I only have two wires coming to the switches.
Would anyone know how to wire the module in my configuration?
Is it absolutely necessary that I have access to the impulse relay?
In principle you’re in the simplest case, you have push-button switches.
You just need to wire the zbmini into one of the switch boxes.
The L wire into L in, your wire on 1 on L out. Your switch wired to S1 and S2.
And most importantly, configure your zbmini to work in push-button mode by pressing the zbmini button 3 times quickly 
Thanks @zedyxer. I’ve already tried that wiring and I pressed three times. But I messed everything up:
- first press OK, I turned on the light. But then I had to press twice to turn it off, then twice to turn it on…
- the second switch stopped working.
- after a while nothing responded. Neither the commands sent to the module nor actions on the switch would turn the light on.
I had to remove the module.
But if you think that’s the right way to do it, I’ll try again. It might be like with my two-way switch where I had a problem that resolved itself without doing anything;
Off-topic: @bab85 I’m chiming in because I have lots of two-way switches at my place that I can’t automate… If you have a little tutorial
@guim31 It’s not simple — you’ll necessarily have to change some parts.
For example, if you use a module like @bab85’s you need to replace your switches with push-button switches.
Otherwise you’ll have to modify the electrical wiring of your lamps.
@guim31 I’m not skilled enough to make a tutorial that would work for sure, but I’m happy to try to help you. Note that I’ve only done one va-et-vient (two-way, 2-switch) so far (when I finish with the télérupteur (impulse/latching relay) I’ll tackle a va-et-vient (two-way) with 3 switches).
I started from a drawing that faithfully represents my circuit, with the actual connection points (Wago, junction box…), real colors, and which, for a va-et-vient (two-way), should schematically look like this:
Then, still on my drawing, I’m trying to obtain one of the following two schematics with a no-neutral module, taking into account the physical constraints (for example it was impossible for me to run a new cable between switch 1 and my junction box):
But since there are quite a few different physical wirings for the same schematic circuit, it’s difficult for me to go further. If you manage to draw the existing setup I can try to tell you how to do it. However we are indeed off-topic — maybe we should create a new one.
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@_Will_71 : for the two-way switching I kept my rocker switches and I managed to add only one wire in my junction box, indeed to feed the live of my lamps (L out of the Sonoff to the L of the lamps).
Ok, the push-buttons are for when you can’t add a cable.
To return to the original topic, I rewired it as described by @zedyxer but it makes no difference:
- The second switch no longer works: it no longer sends any signal to the impulse relay (which I was able to find). Not having been able to trace the entire cable routing, I don’t know how the two switches are connected to the impulse relay, and therefore I can’t understand how, by adding the module, the second switch is rendered inoperative.
- Several pulses are required for the lamp’s status to change.
if you can attach a photo of your impulse relay and your two switches it could help. Of course before opening the cover don’t forget to shut off the meter, it’s Christmas 
it’s not the time to get told off by your wife, you owe her more than just the light! 
How did you wire your module? With a wiring diagram we could guide you better.
But in my opinion keeping both solutions in parallel is likely to be complicated, I think. Anyway, it all depends on the module’s capabilities.
If you want to keep both solutions I think you shouldn’t connect your switches to the module and should leave them directly on the impulse relay. The module should ultimately be used as a virtual switch, but it must provide a pulse on its output. Because yes, your impulse relay expects a pulse to operate the contact.
So you should be sure that your module provides a pulse on Lout with a dry contact that you wire in parallel with your push-buttons on the impulse relay.
I wired a garage door this way with a Z-Wave module that provides a pulse via a dry contact, which I put in parallel with a push-button.
With this solution you can control directly with your push-buttons or from Gladys. And if the module fails, since the push-buttons are still wired directly, there’s no problem
@cce66 For photos it’s going to be complicated because the impulse relay (télérupteur) is hidden (it’s a flush-mounted one, not a modular device) and I can barely see the wires that connect to it. I finally managed to find the two live and neutral wires of the lamp that are connected to it. Then I saw a wire between the impulse relay (télérupteur) and the circuit breaker, and then there is a final orange wire leaving the impulse relay, but I can’t see its path. I suppose it’s the return from my switches (interrupteurs). As for the switches, as I said before they just have a red wire on L and an orange wire on 1. But between the two, I couldn’t see how it’s done, I don’t know how all these little things are connected.
a recessed swing-arm? send whatever you
@_Will_71 I’m actually not sure that zbminil2 is meant for that.
I’ll dig into your virtual switch story anyway (but I’d need to be able to access the wires better).
I’ve already tried putting it as a virtual switch, placing it after a switch instead of before: that is, I left the original switch wiring and I only connected the module’s L In and Lout to the switch’s L and 1. But that didn’t work well either. I don’t really remember the operation but in that setup, both switches worked, the module worked too, but independently. From what I recall, if I turned on with a switch, I had to turn off with a switch, and if I turned on with the module, I had to turn off with the module. That might not seem too annoying, but since it’s to make my wife’s life easier, if in the end it complicates her life, I’ll end up being called Maurice.
The module absolutely has to emit a pulse for this to work, and I’m not sure (I haven’t checked) that this module is capable of that; otherwise it certainly won’t work.
The problem is that the wiring for a two-way switch and for an impulse relay isn’t the same: in the first it’s switches so three wires come in, in the second it’s push-buttons and you should only have two wires coming in.
I ran new tests, here are the results :
- I removed the two switches (which are indeed push-buttons) and put the Sonoff on its own. The light can be controlled. But the Sonoff only supplies the necessary current when it goes from off to on (when going from on to off, there is a click at the latching relay but nothing happens). This means the Sonoff’s state does not reflect the light’s state (because to turn it off you have to go from on to off then from off to on). I found people on forums mentioning the same thing and who set up routines that automatically switch from off to on when an on-to-off action is triggered. So this phenomenon is independent of my installation, but with the routine it allows the lamp to work.
- If you keep the Sonoff and add a push-button switch. This only affects the light if the Sonoff is off. If the Sonoff is on (whether the light is on or not), you can press the switch as much as you want and nothing happens. But this phenomenon may depend on my installation, as I haven’t found it anywhere else. So to make the Sonoff and the switches coexist I would have to make a routine that automatically switches the Sonoff from on to off when you switch it from off to on.
However this does not fix the problem that the Sonoff’s state will not give me the light’s state (the Sonoff will always be off). To manage automatic turn-offs or turn-ons if necessary, that will not be possible.
If anyone has push-button switches and a module that reflects the light’s state, I’m interested. In the meantime I’m giving up.
In any case thanks for trying to help me 
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Have you checked whether the live (phase) was actually reaching your pushbuttons as well as the voltage?
If you want to install this module, the problem is that it duplicates the role of the impulse relay, so if you want it to work you have to put it in place of the impulse relay!
la solution pourrait être de remplacer le impulse relay dans le electrical panel par le Sonoff.
de cette manière chaque interrupteur pilote indépendamment l’éclairage sur la borne S2 (phase uniquement) et le Sonoff reste pilotable en Zigbee.
EDIT : beaten to it ^^
Yes, I’ve seen people doing what you propose. But others replied that you shouldn’t do that, that it was the impulse relay’s (télérupteur) job to handle switching the load to the light. Not knowing who was right, I didn’t go ahead with it. And above all, if the module fails, there will be no light (and for now I have no experience with the reliability of this kind of